Friday, September 28, 2012

Spain

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Morning arrival and lights of the Cathedral over the city.

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Family at the beach walking back from one of the missions.

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This is one of the White Towns seen on our way to hike above Grazalema.

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Painting of a bullfight at Arcos de la Frontera in Musea de Cadiz. Some people attended one, a cultural experience that held no appeal for me.

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Hanging with colleagues at the time of our sail.

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Pulling away from port early to sail to Canary Islands. Another volcano hike in the plans.

Tuesday, September 25, 2012

Flexibility and International Concerns

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When I was an undergraduate, I had Classical Greek as a language requirement for my Liberal Arts degree. (Had I known I would end up in LA for a substantial part of my adult life, I would’ve planned differently.) This was not a popular route of study at Ohio State, so my classes were the size of graduate seminars rather than the large lecture halls that shaped much of my learning in those days.

In larger, impersonal classes, I could do badly on an computer-graded exam and not feel the impact. In my language courses, if I was one of eight students and not prepared to translate, I was flush with embarrassment. That guided my choices and hence, my cumulative GPA suffered. The nice thing at the time is that I remember my father saying, but did you learn something? I did learn, and continue to do so.

As news unfolds in the world, in many ways Semester at Sea is in a bubble. Internet is slow, so the regular news that I would get from television or reading papers or blogs is not available. The protests around the world came to our attention because it directly impacted this community. For more than a week we waited while others assessed the viability of our planned agenda, to sail from Spain to Morocco, a Muslim country. it is the country most different than the United States in many ways, and the first non-European port.

As one who travels independently, i have ignored warnings from the State Department to visit Bali and Nepal. I have been with one other person or a small group. If it had been different circumstances, a quick ferry from Tarifa to Morocco may have definitely been part of travel plans.

Traveling on a ship full of predominantly Americans is different, and the Institute for Shipboard Education decided to nix this Muslim-dominated country. I am bummed, as are pretty much everyone else. Once again the actions of a few and their First Amendment rights ruin something for the many. My partner was excited about the hiking in the Atlas mountains and doing home stays along the way. I feel badly about the venders and organizers who expected the funds from this many tourists to significantly contribute to their economy, and besides the deposits, a large portion of their anticipated income is lost.

We are a different beast to be sailing as a campus community into a port, than lone travelers entering a space. We have the chance to be ambassadors and cultural explorers. Some students embrace this consciously. We had a student panel today about the Arab Spring, and learned a lot about Arab cultures across borders. Others are still orienting and probably doing the best they can given their stages of development. There is a lot of beach-seeking behavior, which makes some sense for someone in a landlocked state of the union; this feels like an extended spring break.

What I hope is this: Even if the most magical event is shopping or a new club or the beach, at least these students did this on foreign soil. There are a huge percentage of Americans who do not have passports or any interest in travel far from home. Perhaps for those who are less invested in the education beyond the classroom, there is a basic lesson about other places. If someone says, I went there; it was fun. Let’s go again, that is progress. This orientation gets them beyond their Xenophobia, and perhaps the next time there will be that moment of taking in more of what is deep and old and historically and culturally relevant.

We sail to the Canary Islands instead of Morocco, then on to Ghana. Having been six days in Spain has been relaxing, and because many students left for Barcelona, Madrid, or Ibiza, the shipboard community was mellower during this time. I feel renewed. I keep having conversations with students, faculty, and staff about ways to make meaning of these experiences. I contemplate many of the one liners from repeat travelers whose statements are koans, words to be savored and internalized with meaning beyond the surface that speaks to the heart.

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Sunday, September 23, 2012

Portugal

Yes, so far i have gotten up every morning we pull into a new dock to see the sunrise. Some mornings, it is pretty rough, because I have been losing hours of sleep along the way traveling east. This changes soon, with Spain being the last time we lose an hour. At some point, we will gain them back, the luxury of extra hours of sleep.
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I had four distinct experiences in Portugal: Sagres, Sintra, Fado and Belém. We rented a car the first day and drove to the southernmost point of the country. It was toll roads and a quick drive down, then meandering back. After wandering and having a memorably bad lunch in town, we found the picturesque end of the road. I love being anywhere when the water that surrounds the land is visible on both sides.
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The fort there was a pale contrast to the warm colors of nature.
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But inside, we were delighted by the bright and whimsical shapes of the current art show.
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There is a sense of freedom and exhilaration for me to stand on a cliff and watch the fierceness of the waves crash on the rocks. I am humbled by the forces of nature, As we wandered to where the lighthouse was, one of my companions started to frantically call my name to not miss the dolphins below. It was such a nice way to end this part of our visit to this part of Portugal.
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Sintra
This is a town where everyone who had been to Portugal before, said was worth the day trip. The more beautiful experiences in life usually take more effort, but this one was surprisingly easy. We took a train and wandered into a town dominated by the towers in the first photo, and saw lots of castles painted the colors of sherbet. Think inspiration for Madonna Inn in the Central Coast, without the cheesy factor.
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Old and graceful, with stunning parks and public art.
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We headed back to Lisbon and found a restaurant that had been scoped out earlier. We were the first to be seated as it was opening, giving us the best seats in the house for Fado. This is Portuguese torch songs with a trio of talented musicians. My friend who had lived here said it was not to be missed, and I am glad we stayed out for this, and the traditional regional food as well. So far, I am doing okay as a vegetarian where we’ve been.
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                        Archway in the Lisbon Square
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Bridge designed by the same person as SF.
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Jerónimos Monastery
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The view from where our ship was docked.
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Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Post-port reflections and student life

Life on the ship is a culture in and of itself. Students are not quite prepared for the acclimation to living within a community where one cannot really walk away, take a bus into town, or go home for the weekend. The students range from gap-year to post-baccalaureate, with the majority being Juniors. All this packing and considering the moments in various communities, and the biggest hurdle, here and in life, is how do I get along with others?

I have been thinking and talking about the difference between being “responsible to” and “responsible for”. Here is a dilemma: We come as an individual for the adventure, and then there is the messy complications of others! Or, some come with friends who share many similarities on the land campus, but the test of novelty and adventure starts to differentiate them. To thine own self be true. There is an invitation to grow up in the kind of young adult way where one is able to break off from the pack.

One of the encouraging statements heard repeatedly is to allow yourself to get lost. I am noticing for myself and others the need to both have enough knowledge to have a good experience, and then enough flexibility to be open to the mysteries of what might unfold. It was lovely being on a scheduled trip to Greece, and to see and experience so much beauty. It is also a treat to get lost, to wander into courtyards and find all kinds of gems. The band below was playing the theme from the Love Boat, and had an angel dancing in front of them.

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To duck in behind a shop yielded this cool public art, then led us into a store with bamboo housewares that were unbelievably light and aesthetically pleasing to handle.

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I anticipate that future post-port reflections will bring a different tone even, once we get beyond the Euro countries. The students of color have been challenged in a different way, such as when being Asian American provokes a lot of questions. So much of the Global Studies course has been addressing colonization, and we will be heading to Africa and Brazil, where a huge portion of the Africans taken into slavery ended up going under the oppression of the governments and countries where we’ve been stopping. With the current events and being around larger Islamic communities, there are layers to uncover regarding human rights, religious freedom, free speech, and respect for plurality.

Another idea that I have been mulling over is the idea of no judgement, especially as it relates to comparisons. I am guilty of mentally compartmentalizing and cataloguing, because it is so efficient! What it costs is the 3-dimensional comprehension of something new and wonderful.

I was suggesting to someone planning a honeymoon, if feasible, to go someplace where you’ve never been before. Start off your marriage on an even playing field wherever possible. Rather than one person, knowing already, do some homework together and have the direct experience together of discovering and delighting in all the magic that the occasion should hold. antwerp-2012-09-18-03-56.jpg

So we leave Antwerp, and are off to Lisbon, which is suggested to be the most beautiful port in Europe for disembarking.

Sunday, September 16, 2012

Greece - Athens and Santorini


To awaken in the morning in Europe and 3+ hours later to be in Athens is incredible. We had a walk through the Plaka and dinner with dancers and music. On the way back, walking to the subway yielded the following view. Columns in the midst of the shops and cafes. References to 2A.D. as being modern.
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The next morning was a flight to Santorini. This is one of those top three places I have dreamed about seeing, and it is because of seeing a photo years ago of something very similar to the following photos.
Church in Oia.
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Fira
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It was as stunning as I expected.
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This is our amazing guide, Alexandra, who took such good care of a group of 35. She shepherded us through some wonderful
experiences and was sitting in the lobby with maps and suggestions for dinner.
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The view across from our hotel when we walked out to go for dinner.
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Famous for olives, cherry tomatoes, and white aubergine. The feta, capers, nutmeg and olive oil added so much flavor to every dish.
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The sun hung in the sky for the longest time, creating many special moments.
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The night sky was full of jewels.
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Thankfully, the students all got up for the volcanic tour and a swim in the Aegean Sea. We found pockets of thermal springs!
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I had the experience once of going to Crater Lake Oregon before and seeing a color blue in nature I had never seen before.
The Aegean colors were not unfamiliar, but more deep and saturated in life than I could have imagined.
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We got off the boat and there was a 560 stair ascent to the town. I walked. The students rented unruly donkeys, and we made it to the top around the same time.
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The evening sky as we go to catch the “Easy Jet” speedboat back to Athens. Five hours was a long time on a ferry, even a fast one.

I recommend flying, and think the island is worth the effort. Santorini is definitely a place where I would like to return.
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The Acropolis. We had an excellent guide and learned a lot about the history of Greek civilization and democracy. We also learned a lot about the Olympics, visiting the center of the first location of the modern Olympics, just after being in London and seeing remnants of the most recent ones.
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This was a taste of Greece, and a strong invitation to come back. I think I would schedule Crete and Santorini next time, for an opportunity to do more outdoor activities and to visit another slice of Greek history.