“The whole object of travel is not to set foot on foreign land; it is at last to set foot on one’s own country as a foreign land.”
We were told that Rio rivals as best port to pull into, and so we set our alarms accordingly. More students, faculty, and staff were on deck than most mornings in anticipation. First, nature, then the beauty of the city and surrounding area satisfied our senses. It was warm and welcoming. This is a town caught between water and mountains, and it uses the space well. Some favelas climb up to the steepest of hillsides, and I have heard of elevators in some neighborhoods. When we were above the city in Santa Teresa, the steps down reminded me of Cusco, steep but wide, with a healthy population moving up and down them.
Our first cab ride away from the ship was to Ipanema Beach to see a Hippie Crafts Market, It was a mellow place to walk around and see so many artisans’ work, as well as taste Brazilian pastries. Another great town for graffiti.
The beach was gorgeous. I am not sure how this looks barren, as the crowds were thick on this hot Sunday morning. Brazilians are beautiful. There were volleyball games, hands free, with amazing soccer skills in play to help that ball clear the net.
I asked about this later. Orchids are grafted onto trees that appear to be on public streets. It added an extra element of glamour to the neighborhood. We had an incredible lunch here, with the meat eaters indulging in all kinds of treats and I had some really fresh fruit.
We took the cable cars up to Sugar Loaf Mountain. Here are some views below.
On a walk at the top part of the mountain, the monkeys came down out of the trees to say hello.
Sunset came around 6:30, and we opted to go back to the ship. Two more days to enjoy this city, a place I immediately felt like I could spend a year in if given the chance. I don’t feel that way too often because I love Los Angeles and Venice so much. Living as an ex-pat in a country without the primary language would wear me down, but I still hold on to that sense of wonder about “one year”, and have my whole adult life. For those who are younger and less obligated, I challenge you to keep this option in your minds, not necessarily about Rio, but about places that speak to you in some way.
The next morning we bummed a van ride with friends to see Cristo Redentor, the Christ statue on the hill. What a scene!
I spent about an hour milling around, looking at every sort of way people photograph the statue and the vistas below.
Me and my work mate Damian. Below, Lisa taking Annalyn’s photo.
On the way down the hill, five of us hopped out of the van in Santa Teresa, a town Abel from Los Angeles told me to visit. He suggested what I thought was Supernatural Restaurant. I am glad we landed at the right place--Sobrenatural, and we had another fantastic meal. Wiser this time, we ordered 4 dishes for 5 people, and some excellent drinks like Maté Iced Tea and Pineapple Mint fresh juice.
This town is full of artists, similar culturally to Topanga, California, Mádrd, New Mexico, Jerome, Arizona, or Yellow Springs, Ohio, The history is there was a trolley that rode up and down along the aqueduct bringing tourists up to buy art, visit the quirky cafes, and enjoy the view of the basin and coast below. A crash including fatalities has put a hold of the trolley working, and locals hope it is back in service in 2014. We didn’t mind that it was a bit slower in foot traffic. It was a great place for wandering.
There were lots of things for the eyes to feast on, and these installations in someone’s yard were intriguing.
Then, the walk down to the city centre brought this colorful surprises. From the top, there is little evidence of the color to unfold. Turning around and looking up was another visual feast.
This is the kind of place we could have spent hours, because of the intricacies of each tile and the story it told.
Alas, we left this area and moved on to the Catedral, expecting something old and European. We were met instead by a pyramid-inspired building that looked pretty bland on the outslde.
Inside, it was spacious, and the light coming through cast a warm glow.
St. Francis is backlit from a side door, and behind him in the cityscape view is the Cristo statue looking down.
A walk back to the ship then, as some of our party had Samba, and another was going out for a Big Meat fest. I opted out of both evening plans. The next day’s forecast called for rain, and I was the leader for a Rainforest hike to some waterfalls.
With rain of course comes mist, a cloud covering so thick that even though we were standing in the Tijuca Forest at a spot with 360° views, our backdrop was opaque. We altered the hike to follow the rivers, learn about some vegetation, and see the falls.
And that’s it for Rio! I came back to the ship and had an excellent cup of coffee before getting on board. I finished my latest novel before dinner, and am completing this blog entry. We are off for 8 days of sailing, half which will be in the Amazon. I am less than a month from home, and that is a theme with many of the students I am seeing. I am also completing lots of letters for the candidates hoping for doctoral programs next year. The flow of life involves integration of the novel and the necessary. I wish I could have stayed longer in this city. I don’t know if I will be back, but i do know how much I appreciate good food, good company, visual richness, nature, and culture. In many ways Rio makes me grateful for my own city, my own home. Yay!
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